Good Friday, Toledo

Semana Santa, Holy Week in Spain...in the days leading up to Easter, Spanish Catholics honor a tradition that dates back to the 16th century when the Church decided to present the Passion of Christ in a way that the everyone could understand: a series of processions through the streets, depicting scenes from his story.   The processions take place in several cities around the country.

On April 6th, we were feeling a little lazy.  We wanted to leave the house, but we didn't want to go too far, and we didn't want to have to worry too much about Maddy.  So we thought, we'll hit the Prado for a couple hours.  Just as we finished getting ready, our friends Borja and Daphne called, and invited us to hitch a ride in their car to Toledo--the closest city to Madrid with Semana Santa processions.  And Maddy was invited to join us.  Time for an adventure!

With the weather alternating between sun, hail, and rain, we arrived mid-afternoon to see the Good Friday festivities.

  

 

Even Maddy was happy to be going on an adventure!

 

We entered the city by crossing the river and walking through the gate,

along the same route as Don Quixote.

 

  

Our first stop was La Abadía...

 ...where we enjoyed marinated cockles and puff pastry cups
filled with aioli and topped with baby eel...

...and four hot plates: potato and parsnip puree, mixed with bacalao, and topped with crispy fried onions; fried potatoes and green peppers, topped with crispy jamón and a fried egg; a traditional Castilla la Mancha stew of pork tenderloin, tomato sauce, peas, garlic and onions; and breaded chicken in a fresh tomato sauce.

 More Don Quixote

and Cervantes, of course

Killing time by the river, before the processions start.

Eating marzipan made by nuns.  Yum!

We stationed ourselves at Plaza de San Vicente, and the pomp and circumstance began...

The most exciting part was watching to see what would come around the corner next!

First to be presented was Christ's Descent, carried by 13 men.

Each piece of artwork in the procession is accompanied by a Brotherhood, or local guild.  In addition to the men carrying each float, members walk in front of and behind the float.

Here the members wear the traditional nazareno, a medieval robe for penitents.
The people march very slowly and solemnly in unison to the beating of drums.
When the drums stop, everyone remains still and waits.

The crowd around us

 The nuns in the window above

 The next float: Lady of Sorrows

Which stopped and was turned so the nuns could pay homage

Holy Sepulchre

 True Cross

After this float had passed, we decided to leave.  Unfortunately, we were stuck on the inside of the parade route!  As luck would have it, however, we only had to watch the end which we just missed.

The final float: Our Lady of Solitude

What an amazing cultural experience! Sometimes, Eddie and I can't help feeling like we're in a movie, or like we've been transported to another planet, another time. Whenever we go out we get caught up in some crazy adventure; we find ourselves in surreal moments, always astonished at how lucky we are to be here. Is it really that everything is so different? Or are we finally just paying attention?

Feeling at home...

I used to get manicures and pedicures.  I used to wash my hair with expensive shampoo.  I bought new clothes on a regular basis.  I’d cook fancy dinners on an average weeknight.  I spent $200 a month on cable TV.

But that has all changed.  My nails are short and bare.  My hair has seen better days.  We survive on spaghetti and eggs.  We don’t watch any TV, except for an occasional Law & Order that we rent from iTunes.  And I couldn’t be happier…

This new way of life has been transformative and liberating.  It's no longer about money and stuff and accumulation.  Now we spend Sundays strolling through the city, gawking at everything we pass.  Fridays and Saturdays, we’re out with friends—eating dinner as cheaply as possible, watching futbol, drinking (perhaps too much).

We walk around our own block and it’s like we’re in a movie.  We run into our friend Mike while he walks Danko, Maddy’s new doggie pal.  The baker waves to us from the cake shop, saying, “Buenos Dias.”  At our favorite restaurant, the barkeep shouts through the window, “Hola, chicos!”

We worked so hard to get here.  And it’s by no means easy now that we’re here.  I need to pick up more work.  We get lost.  I can’t speak the language.  We miss our family and friends back home.  Yet, I have not once felt homesick.  Quite the contrary, for the first time I feel settled.  I feel like I could stay here.  It amazes me that we had to travel so far away to shift our perspective so dramatically, and to find a place that truly feels like home.

Translating the Spanish Menu...

I like to think I was somewhat of an adventurous eater before I came to Spain...but there were a few exceptions.  Most notably, my aversion to onions.  If a dish had onions, I would either not order it or I'd spend the whole meal picking around them.  I still can't stand raw onions, but I'm learning to eat the cooked ones.  I'm also not big on what I would call weird foods: dishes made with "local delicacies" or rarely used animal parts.  I don't care how much Mexicans adore Huitlacoche, I have no interest in eating moldy corn.

But since I arrived in Spain, I've had to expand the list of things I'm willing to eat.  For one thing, I don't want to offend our local barkeep, David, by refusing to eat a free tapa he's put in front of me, such as the little sardines that come fried whole--tail, head and all.

But it isn't just that the food is different here, I also can't read the menus.  A lot of places offer menus in English, but not all do.  And so half the time, I'm just pointing to something and giving it a go.  So in an attempt to make better guesses, I've compiled a food dictionary for myself (I'm also hoping it will come in handy when visitors, like my mom or Francine, need help picking something to eat).  Bon Appétit!

A
A la Plancha
     Grilled
Aceite de Oliva
     Olive oil 
Ajito Laminado
     Sliced garlic
Alitas de Pollo al Ajillo
     Garlic Chicken Wings  
Anchoas
     Salted Anchovies
Asado
     Roasted or baked
Atun
     Tuna

B
Barquita de Calabacín Gratinada
     Zucchini gratin
 Bienmesabe
     Marinated fried fish...literally translates as "Tastes Good to Me"
Bocquerones
     Anchovies marinated in olive oil
Bonito
     Tuna
Buey
     Beef (Ox)

C
Calamares a la Andaluza
     Quick-fried, battered calamari rings
Caldo
     A brothy soup  
Callos a la Madrileña
     Tripe stew
Caña
     A small glass of draft beer
Cazuela
     Casserole  
Cebolla
     Onion (aros = sliced)
Champiñón
     Mushrooms
Chanquetes
     Whitebait (small, baby fish; e.g. sardines)  
Chipirones
     Squid
Chopitos
     Baby squid 
Chorizo a la sidra
     Spicy sausage cooked in cider
Codillo a la Gallega
     Pork Knuckle  
Cogollos de Tudela
     Lettuce Hearts
Croquetas Caseras de Jamón
     Béchamel sauce mixed with diced Jamón, then deep-fried

E
Ensalada Griega
     Greek salad with lettuce, tomatoes, olives and feta cheese
Ensalada Mixta
     Mixed salad with lettuce, tuna, tomatoes, hard-boiled eggs, olives, and white asparagus Ensaladilla Rusa
     Mayonaise-based salad with tuna, potatoes, carrots, peas and chopped, hard-boiled eggs
Entrecot
     Rib-eye steak
Escabechada
     Pickled in olive oil, vinegar and spices
Espárragos Gordos de Navarra
     White asparagus, typically served with mayonnaise and a tomato
Espinacas Salteadas
     Sauteed spinach
 
F
Fabada Asturiana
     Stew with white beans, chorizo, Morcilla and bacon
Filete de Ternera
     Veal filet
Fritas/Fritos/Fritura
     Fried

G
Gambas
     Shrimp
Gambón
     Prawns

H
Huevos Rotos
     Fried eggs served over french-fried potatoes with a choice of meat

J
Jamón Ibérico
     Thinly sliced meat from a cured pork leg
Jamón Serrano
     Thinly sliced meat from a cured pork leg, generally less expensive than Ibérico

L
Lacón a la gallega
     Ham from a young pig, cooked with paprika and olive oil
Lomo (Iberíco / Buey)
     Tenderloin steak (Pork / Beef)
Lonchitas de Jamón Serrano
     Thin slices of Jamón

M
Magro con tomate
     Cubed pork loin slow-cooked in a savory tomato sauce (like pot roast)
Manzana
     Apple
Manzanilla Té
     Chamomile tea
Migas Manchegas con Huevo Frito y Torreznos
     Breadcrumbs sauteed in bacon fat, with chopped bacon and topped with a fried egg
Mollejitas de lechal
     Sweetbreads or gizzards...not sure
Morcilla
     Black sausage made from pig's blood, rice, onions and spices; typically served sliced and warm,
     with a crunchy outer texture

P
Patatas Fritas
     French-fried potatoes
Perdiz
     Partridge
Picadillo
     Hash
Pimientos
     Peppers

Pulpo
     Octopus

Q
Queso Manchego 
     Aged, sheep's milk cheese; the rind is not edible

R
Revuelto
     Scramble
Rodaballo a la Gallega
     Turbot (white fish) served white asparagus over diced potatoes, peas, red peppers, and onions

S
Salchichón
     Cured sausage (not spicy), like Salami
Salmón a la plancha
     Grilled Salmon
Solomillo
     Sirloin steak
Sopa de Pescado
     Fish chowder

T
Tierno
     Tender 
Tomate Relleno de Marisco
     Tomato stuffed with seafood
Torreznos Ibéricos
     Small, thick strips of deep-fried bacon

V
Venado
     Venison
Ventresca
     Belly of fish; considered delicate and tasty, normally the most expensive part

Z
Zanahoria
     Carrot

La Cocina Española

This is our kitchen:

 

A microwave and two burners...and, well, that’s about it.  There is no oven.  There isn’t even a cutting board, let alone a chef’s knife.

For most of you that know me well, you know that I love to cook.  And I love to cook elaborate meals.  Standard dinner fare in Santa Clara was Prosciutto and Sage Wrapped Chicken Saltimbocca with Creamy Polenta and Asparagus—which required several nice knives, a cast iron skillet, three burners, a sheet pan and an oven.  So what’s a girl to make on a reduced budget in a reduced kitchen, with a tiny fraction of the fancy utensils she used to have?

On the first attempt, Sautéed Chicken Breasts with Pesto Cheese Ravioli:

The ravioli and pesto were pre-packaged.  Not that I would ever make ravioli from scratch.  Having attempted that once, and spending eight hours at it, I decided no such food was worth that much work…unless it makes you sing with joy while eating it (my ravioli failed at this).

This first meal made in Spain was, let’s face it, a lazy attempt.  But, you have to start somewhere.  And, I figured better to work with my new kitchen rather than rail against it and curse it for its shortcomings.  So I picked something easy, and familiar.

My next attempt was a little bolder and a lot more Spanish (despite its name):  Arroz ala Cubana.

We first had this dish as part of the menu del dia* at Cafeteria Cristina, a bar/restaurant on the corner of our block.  I remember thinking at the time, I could make this.  So tonight, after a long day of school, with homework still left to do, I pulled the ingredients out…jarred tomato sauce (which I doctored), eggs, microwavable rice, and bread.  I threw in some white asparagus (also from a jar)—a delicacy back home, it’s served in abundance in Spain, the way Californian restaurants serve broccoli.  The results were uber-delicious, perhaps even more so than what we ate at Cristina’s.  I don’t know if there is something different about Spanish eggs, or if it was the induction cooktop, but I have never had a fried egg turn out so perfectly before.

What have I learned?  I have underestimated my kitchen, and myself.  I just need to learn to cook Spanish food (and be ok with a few pre-packaged ingredients).

Here’s to more homemade dishes!

*A menu del dia is basically a bar or restaurant’s daily lunch special.  You get your choice of a first and second course (both equally large and filling), and a basket of bread.  For your drink, you have a choice of a beer, a soft drink, or as much tinto de verano as you can handle—if you choose tinto, they basically bring you a glass, a bottle of red wine and a bottle of Lemon Fanta and let you mix your own version of Sangria.  All of this comes at an average price of 9€ (or $12).

The New Digs

On Tuesday we signed our lease and moved into our new apartment.  It is so incredible to have someplace to settle into, unpack our suitcases, and feel at home.  We have a Pharmacy and Fruit Store around each corner and more than 10 bars/restaurants within a block’s walk.  We love our new neighborhood!

We began the day by opening a bank account.  I’m not sure what else could make me feel more European than having a Spanish address and international bank account number!

And while we spent the first night out of the area celebrating my birthday with dinner at El Club Allard, on Wednesday we headed around the corner to the bar our apartment hunter, Michael, told us about.  We ordered a round of drinks and received our first free tapa since arriving in Madrid!  We had heard these free tapas existed, but had yet to enjoy the benefits!

As the tapas we actually ordered came to the table, the locals started filling up the bar to watch the Barcelona/Valencia fútbol game on TV.  We struck up a conversation with the older gentlemen sitting next to us.  When they learned we were from California, they began speaking in English…until I leaned over and said, “En Espanol, por favor, queria practicar mi Espanol,” (“In Spanish, please, I would like to practice my Spanish”).  They were happy to oblige, and answered plenty of “Como se dice…?” (“How do you say…?”) questions for me.  If we return to this bar next week, it’s very likely the same people will be there again.  It’s like Cheers!

After the match was over, and our tapas were finished, we walked home in the rain.

Sweet Genius

On Tuesday night, Eddie took me to dinner to celebrate my 34^th birthday.  I don’t feel nearly as old as that number makes me feel.  But, it’s just a number anyway, right?  In any case, for our meal I chose El Club Allard, a two Michelin star restaurant near Madrid’s Plaza de Espana.  This marks the third country in which Eddie and I have enjoyed a Michelin-starred meal.  Two years ago, we celebrated my birthday at Jules Verne, halfway up the Eiffel Tower in Paris.  Last year, we marked the occasion at COI in San Francisco.

On this particular evening, our taxi dropped us in front of a 19^th century building with no markings whatsoever.  It looked like the picture on the website, so we went inside.  To our right, a small door—with no signage—marked the restaurant’s entrance.  We were seated in a small, quiet room with a few other diners.  One woman was already taking pictures.  This bodes well, no?

On the table, before each of us was a small card that read “Bienvenidos a la Revolución Silenciosa…” (“Welcome to the silent revolution”).  A waiter came to take our drink order, and placed a small dish of “salsa” in front of us.

He explained that we were to take the small cards and use them like a chip, to eat the dip with.  Yes, the card was edible—think Chinese rice candy wrapping, but hard—and the salsa was a foam consisting of chile and cilantro.  Delicioso and so unique!

To begin our meal, Diego Guerrero, the chef, came out to take our order.  He spoke to us in Spanish and Eddie wanted to practice, so he played along.  Then Diego got to a question Eddie didn’t understand.  “I think he wants to know if we have any allergies,” I said—not that I understood, mind you, I just guessed based on context.

We ordered the Classico menu and here’s how it went…

Game truffeé with Foie and mushrooms
Superb!  An earthy creaminess balanced with an ever-so-slightly sweet crunchiness…

Mini Babybelle of Camembert truffeé
A tart and odiferous cheese, made palatable by its salty cracker counterpoint.

 Sukiyaky
Umami at the height of its inexplicableness!

 Scallop’s small pasty with black garlic
The garlic hammered my tastebuds at first, but mellowed with each subsequent bite;
however, it gave way to a slightly overpowering fishiness.
Not a winner in my book (nor Eddie’s).

 Raviolis de Alubias de Tolosa en infusion de berza
The larger ravioli came across as a dignified version of refried beans, but it was really
the smaller pockets of chorizo oil, which popped in my mouth like caviar,
that made this dish sing.

 Eggs with bread and panceta served over a light potato cream sauce
When cracked down the middle, the bread “bled” its yolk.  Imagine sunny-side-up eggs, with bacon and toast, all in one bite.

 Black Halibut with black garlic “ajoblanco,”
a broth of their own spines and cinnamon, lemon Pu-ehr
Divine—from the crispy skin, to the flavorful sauce,
to the crunchy seaweed topping it all off!

 Taco “hare”
Perhaps if I weren’t from the land where they sell these on the street, this may have been more impressive.  But, as it was, the mole rabbit was like that I would get at Casa Lupe (hey, Monica!)…tasty, but nothing too fancy.

 Sacher pot with ginger
A foamy cream, topped with soft, crumbled ginger.
Eddie was wanting for more texture, but I think the topping wasn’t crunchy so that we could enjoy the lushness of the foam underneath.

 The fishbowl
SWEET GENIUS!  How do you even explain this one?  A white chocolate mousse/foam, topped with two, salty gastronomic versions of coral, garnished with a milk chocolate mussel shell and Blue Curacao foam.  First sweet, then salty, all fading into the melt-in-your-mouth heavenliness of a perfect dessert!

 “Poché egg”
A chocolate eggshell, enveloping a panne cotta filled with mango puree, atop shredded, toasted mango and coconut.  Again, unimaginable creativity!

 Chocolate…“croqueta”
Served in a mini deep-fryer sieve, these soft chocolates went down so easy
because of their creamy sweetness.

It is hard not to compare this meal to those at the other highly rated restaurants we’ve been to.  In fact, COI stands as the pinnacle of our dining adventures—each serving was spot-on in terms of flavor.  But this was not the case at El Club Allard. Not every course was a hit in terms of taste.  However, this meal surpassed any I have ever had in terms of unique creativeness.  If this were “Chopped” or "Sweet Genius," Diego would win for his sheer ability to transform the ingredients into something new each and every time.