Good Friday, Toledo

Semana Santa, Holy Week in Spain...in the days leading up to Easter, Spanish Catholics honor a tradition that dates back to the 16th century when the Church decided to present the Passion of Christ in a way that the everyone could understand: a series of processions through the streets, depicting scenes from his story.   The processions take place in several cities around the country.

On April 6th, we were feeling a little lazy.  We wanted to leave the house, but we didn't want to go too far, and we didn't want to have to worry too much about Maddy.  So we thought, we'll hit the Prado for a couple hours.  Just as we finished getting ready, our friends Borja and Daphne called, and invited us to hitch a ride in their car to Toledo--the closest city to Madrid with Semana Santa processions.  And Maddy was invited to join us.  Time for an adventure!

With the weather alternating between sun, hail, and rain, we arrived mid-afternoon to see the Good Friday festivities.

  

 

Even Maddy was happy to be going on an adventure!

 

We entered the city by crossing the river and walking through the gate,

along the same route as Don Quixote.

 

  

Our first stop was La Abadía...

 ...where we enjoyed marinated cockles and puff pastry cups
filled with aioli and topped with baby eel...

...and four hot plates: potato and parsnip puree, mixed with bacalao, and topped with crispy fried onions; fried potatoes and green peppers, topped with crispy jamón and a fried egg; a traditional Castilla la Mancha stew of pork tenderloin, tomato sauce, peas, garlic and onions; and breaded chicken in a fresh tomato sauce.

 More Don Quixote

and Cervantes, of course

Killing time by the river, before the processions start.

Eating marzipan made by nuns.  Yum!

We stationed ourselves at Plaza de San Vicente, and the pomp and circumstance began...

The most exciting part was watching to see what would come around the corner next!

First to be presented was Christ's Descent, carried by 13 men.

Each piece of artwork in the procession is accompanied by a Brotherhood, or local guild.  In addition to the men carrying each float, members walk in front of and behind the float.

Here the members wear the traditional nazareno, a medieval robe for penitents.
The people march very slowly and solemnly in unison to the beating of drums.
When the drums stop, everyone remains still and waits.

The crowd around us

 The nuns in the window above

 The next float: Lady of Sorrows

Which stopped and was turned so the nuns could pay homage

Holy Sepulchre

 True Cross

After this float had passed, we decided to leave.  Unfortunately, we were stuck on the inside of the parade route!  As luck would have it, however, we only had to watch the end which we just missed.

The final float: Our Lady of Solitude

What an amazing cultural experience! Sometimes, Eddie and I can't help feeling like we're in a movie, or like we've been transported to another planet, another time. Whenever we go out we get caught up in some crazy adventure; we find ourselves in surreal moments, always astonished at how lucky we are to be here. Is it really that everything is so different? Or are we finally just paying attention?